Keeping your basement dry is easier than you thinkThe types of foundations found in homes today are basements, crawlspaces, and slabs. The most common of these, at least in the local area, are basements. Basements have progressed from the days where it was simply a large dirt lined hole dug under a house to provide access to the mechanical parts of a home. They are used as recreation rooms, workshops, TV lounges, movie theatres, and primary living quarters. Regardless of the use, all homeowners want to have a dry basement. I have vivid childhood memories of coming home from vacations and finding several inches of water in the basement because the sump pump had malfunctioned. (Usually it was at that time that my father also malfunctioned-so to speak).
Most of us have had experiences with wet basements at one time or another. Moisture issues can be anything from a musty smell to running water. I inspected a house once with 5 sumps running continuously-and water was still seeping in through the basement floor. Thousands of dollars have been spent on “waterproofing systems”, deluxe sump pumps “with battery backup”, and moisture blocking paints. However, these techniques do not solve the basic issue of water entering the area in the first place. It is estimated that over 60% of basements nationwide have wetness issues below grade. Block foundations, as opposed to poured concrete, have an 80-90% chance of water problems in the first 20 years of existence.(1) These statistics are really not surprising when you consider that most basements are nothing more that a hole in the ground. If there is water anywhere, it will fill in these holes. However, before you get ready to scrap your basement remodeling plans, there are some simple measures you can take that will solve many of the causes of wet basements.
Begin the process of basement salvage by starting outside. Examine the ground adjacent to the foundation. It should slope away from the house at ½-1” per linear foot. For example, the ground 6 feet away from the house should be 3-6 inches lower than the soil level against the house. Improper grading combined with yard and roof run-off are the most frequent causes of moisture intrusion.
Adding or repaired gutters and downspouts is another crucial step in the battle against water. The gutter system plays an important role in diverting water away from the house. The downspouts should have extenders at the bottom that discharge rainwater at least 6 feet away from the foundation. A downspout that discharges directly at the foundation is a sure way to create water and foundation problems.
Another way to test the property drainage is to run water from a garden to hose into your underground drain pipes. This will help you determine if there are any blockages, breaks, or improper sloping. If underground tiles get clogged, water will often back up and be forced through the foundation wall or footers. Underground drain tiles should have an area where they discharge that can be clearly seen. Terminating the tiles underground and relying on slow diffusion into the ground is a bad idea.
Window wells are important for basement exits or light, but often provide a pathway for water directly into the basement windows. Be sure to keep the ground level at least 4 inches below
the top of the window well. If installed correctly, every window well should have a drain tile visible that will help keep the well from filling up with water. Make sure these drains are kept free of leaves or any other debris that could clog the drain. Installing plastic covers over the well will also help to keep water out.
If you have automatic sprinklers, adjust water times to water only when needed. Ensure that sprinklers do not spray against exterior walls. You should also check to see that none of the underground pipes are leaking and allowing large quantities of water to pool against the foundation walls.
Seal all cracks between concrete surfaces and the foundation, such as where driveways and sidewalks connect to the walls, with a flexible outdoor caulk. They should also slope away from the foundation.
Now that the outside has been conquered, you should focus on the inside. First seal any minor cracks in the foundation walls with a flexible caulk to prevent seepage. Any crack over ¼” will probably need professional help. It could indicate a large issue than water problems. These cracks can be filled with epoxy type filler installed by a waterproofing company.
If you unfortunate enough to have a dirt floor in the basement (or crawlspace), install plastic sheeting over it to help eliminate moisture and humidity emanating from the ground. Also, insulate all cold water pipes, well pressure tanks, and air conditioning ducts to prevent condensation. A dehumidifier can also be helpful if is it emptied consistently.
Finished kitchens and bathrooms in the basement should have exhaust vents extended to the exterior to lower the amount of moisture being injected into the basement.
If the tips offered do not solve the water issues in your basement, professional help is probably needed-and not only for the basement! Last resort solutions are usually effective and expensive. They generally require French or curtain drains which involve excavation and the installation of a waterproofing barrier. Unfortunately, these systems help control a large amount of water, but will not help to solve the humidity problems caused by moisture vapors that easily migrate through concrete.
If moisture laden basements concern you, it is a great idea to have any future home purchases inspected by a qualified home inspector. If you are buying a lake house with a crawlspace, it is imperative that you have it inspected. Lake House foundations are not always bad, but due to the surrounding environment, have an extremely high probability of some type of moisture damage. To read or discuss this topic, go to
www.goldkeyinspect.com/blogspot.
1-information provide by ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors)
